Magical Mendoza
While there are several prominent wine regions in Argentina, the conversation starts and stops in Mendoza,
the country’s largest and most important production area. And though one can make specific associations of multiple grapes and wines in Argentina’s other regions that are critical to the overall texture of her culture - Torrents and Salta (especially those of Cafayate), Syrah and San Juan, Pinot Noir and Patagonia’s Rio Negro area - Argentina is spiritually about Malbec and Mendoza is about Malbec.
We had several meals, gazillions of tastings and lots of evocative conversations of which the following is assembled. Much of this information is as a result of a follow up of dinner held in Buenos Aires with Victor Honoré, proprietor of his eponymous company in BA (Buenos Aires), and mixed with my own notes. A little key info…
There are 3 key regions in Mendoza - the Eastern Central, the Central/Central West and the South/Southeast. With this blog entry the focus in the quality Central/Central West areas surrounding Mendoza proper that include the key departments of Lujà n de Cuyo and Maipu are considered the top producing regions closest to the city proper. Here it is lower in altitude than the neighboring South/Southwestern Uco Valley (the next blog).
Both Lujan and Maipu are subdivided, albeit unofficially (since their GI system is under revision), and those bodegas (wineries) which produce wines from top locations will tend to mention the subdistricts that their wines come from. Labels may proudly point out that their wines are produced in Vistalba, Anchoris, Agrelo, or Perdriel if within Lujà n and may state Cruz de la Piedra, Lunlunta or las Margaritas if from Maipu. This sub-labeling is not for ‘us’ in the states but rather for the wine lovers of Argentina who recognize that these are quality areas. For the moment, to the average American consumer, they can be confusing (as they were to me prior to some explanation).
Candidly at this point, most US folks simply want to know that the wine they enjoy is from Mendoza because that’s what we know… kinda like the larger encompassing Marlborough (in New Zealand) or Barossa (in Australia) which are actually subdivided based on geography, style and ‘terroir’ once you dig a little deeper. Those who cultivate in the top sub-regions will be happy to mention Agrelo, Perdriel, or Vistalba on their labels because it normally equates to superior quality. However, there is no legal requirement to mention any of this. Indeed you are not even obligated to put Mendoza on the front label. With a bit of tasting experience and label exploration one will also note that those domains with land in the Eastern Central - Junin, Rivadavia or San Martin - will just mention Mendoza on their labels due the less premium quality found in these lower altitude sub areas.
Some of the important wineries in the Lujà n de Cujo and Maipu departments: Catena, Decero, Luigi Bosca, Carlos Pulenta, Lurton, Alta Vista, AVE, Achával Ferrer, Mendel, O. Fournier, Susana Balbo and Goulart - all of which I tried while I was there. My palate seemingly went to the wines of Agrelo and Vistalba but many were delish and it’s hard to say that there are only a half dozen worth trying.
Any wines from this part of the world that you really love?




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[...] Magical Mendoza By evan While there are several prominent wine regions in Argentina, the conversation starts and stops in Mendoza, the country’s largest and most important production area. And though one can make specific associations of multiple grapes and … Full Circle Blog - http://www.winecouch.com/fullcircleblog/ [...]
posted by AWToday 14/12/08 « AWToday at 8:05 pm on December 14, 2008
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