Now I Am Scared
Call me a prude, conservative, right of Rick Santorum when it comes to wine, but there are certain things one simply doesn’t do. Naked wine, depending on the wine, is often sublime. Many cultivars don’t require much to show them off and indeed when they are over made, they are, in my humble opinion, less interesting. Case in point—most all aromatic white wines (Riesling, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Torrontés, etc.) want to be pure and unadulterated examples of themselves. Even some reds can show wonderfully left alone (Grenache, Dolcetto, and Gamay for example). Add a little oak- fine. Blend with other grapes- fine. But add cream?
I recently fell out of my chair as I read a story about the release of a new line of wines called VineSmoothie, the brainchild of Clever Imports, the same folks who brought you ChocoVine, chocolate wine. VineSmoothie—a French Chardonnay-based fruit-cream wine- launches in the spring selling for around $10, the same price as ChocoVine. The 14%-abv brand will start with four core flavors: Peach, Berry, Pineapple Coconut and Strawberry. Majority owned by the Netherlands’ De Kuyper Royal Distillers, VineSmoothie is targeting 250,000 cases in its first 12 months.
Is it just me? Now, I get it for vodka- by definition, a flavorless spirit that speaks to an inherent fear of flavor. That said, people who want flavor opt for other spirits or more and more dabble in ‘flavored’ vodkas, a huge percentage of today’s mix. That I get….but flavoring and adulterating wine? If you want something other than wine, geez, order something else. According to the folks at Clever, ChocoVine grew by 22% to 550,000 cases last year, almost all that volume in the grocery trade, and in 2012 plans to go…god help us….on-premise.
And if you think it’s a blip. Well, others are taking note. White Rock Distilleries has a new Chocolate Valley Vines label, and E&J Gallo is test-marketing a brand called ChocolatRouge. So, what’s a sommelier to do? Well first off, I don’t think that there’s anything here that suggests an ‘Occupy Your Chain Grocer’ movement. And the most ‘glass half full’ folks might even argue that it’s a category that could transition people to…gulp… ‘real wine,’ though that’s a stretch at best. In the end, it is what it is. Frankly, the folks that make Bailey’s, Carolans, and Starbucks Cream Liqueur have the most to worry. I just have to shake my head and become more tolerant I guess—become a wine moderate as opposed to a conservative. I don’t have to drink it or buy it. Nor do you…
Unless you are one of those restaurants targeted in 2012 for ChocoVine’s on premise rollout! Now what do you pair with….
Is it just me?
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